Overcoating Guidelines
If your pool is CONCRETE: You may choose any of the
National Pool Finishes - each has its unique advantages,
although epoxies offer the longest life.
If you have BARE PLASTER or MARCITE, again, any of
the National products may be used with epoxies offering
the best longevity.
If you have a FIBERGLASS pool, the epoxies are your
choice.
For CONCRETE DECKING around your pool, your choice
is Deck Kote™
PREVIOUSLY COATED POOLS
National recommends using the same type coating to re-coat
a previously finished pool. This assures the best possible
adhesion between the old and new.
TO DETERMINE WHAT COATING IS ON YOUR POOL.
Immerse a small chip in denatured alcohol. If it dissolves,
it is an acrylic water-base. If the chip does not dissolve,
then immerse the chip in Xylene. If the chip then dissolves,
it is a chlorinated rubber coating. If it does not,
it is an epoxy.
Overcoating Guidelines
Epoxies, Chlorinated Rubbers and Acrylic Water-Base
Coatings have to resist attack from all manner of environmental
factors yet remain easy to apply and perform to high standards
for long periods. To achieve this, highly sophisticated
materials are used, which need to be treated with respect.
For this reason, it is suggested that you read labels
carefully and wear protective clothing and gloves. It
is also recommended to use safety glasses or goggles -
especially when applying or sanding swimming pool finishes
where paint may drip or splash into your eyes
Cross Reference Chart
| NATIONAL® |
Ramuc |
Olympic |
| Pool Shield CRX™ |
Type A Chlorinated Rubber |
Paralon 2 |
| Pool Guard EHB™ |
Epoxy EP High Build |
Zeron |
| Aqua Kote™ |
Type DS Acrylic |
Hydrolon |
| Deck Kote™ |
Type ADC Acrylic Deck Coat |
Patio Tones |
Surface Preparation
Surface must always be clean, dry and properly prepared
prior to painting. Failure to do so will lead to eventually
blistering and/or peeling. Previously painted surfaces
should be POWER WASHED to remove loose paint or excessive
chalking. Scrub the entire pool with a TSP (tri-sodium
phosphate) solution to remove all dirt, oils, loose or
peeling paint, and chalk. All surfaces should then be
acid etched with a 15-20% solution of MURIATIC ACID to
achieve a medium grade sandpaper finish on bare concrete
or plaster and to remove mineral deposits on previously
painted chlorinated rubber surfaces. Neutralize/rinse
with TSP. Before applying the paint, the pool must be
completely dry.
Application Procedures
For use on concrete and plaster pools both new and previously
painted, can be brushed, rolled and sprayed. Pool paints
in general are best applied by roller. Use no more than
a 1/2" NAP mohair metal, lambskin, or phenolic core
roller. Do not use on vinyl lined pools. Apply at least
2 coats for best performance. Care needs to be taken to
apply these paints in a thin film to dry surfaces. DO
NOT apply too thickly. Ideal temperatures for application
are between 50°-90°F. Surface temperature should
be at least 50°F. If rain occurs during any part of
the paint process, allow an extra day of dry time for
each day of rain.
Amount of Paint Required
For your chosen finish, please follow the guidelines below
to establish the amount of product you need to complete
your job. The amount of coating you will need for your
pool is closely related to the smoothness of the pool
surface. A rough surface will need up to 50% more product
than a smooth surface. You will also need to know the
total square footage of the painted surface you are refinishing.
Take the total square feet of the pool, divide by the
total square footage per gallon, and times that by 2 for
a 2-coat application. This formula will give you a general
idea of the paint required.
| Lazy L |
| Length x Width x 1.60 equals total
square feet |
| Free Form |
| Length x Width x 1.55 equals total
square feet |
| Oval |
| Length x Width x 1.60 equals total
square feet |
| Roman |
| Length x Width x 1.50 equals total
square feet |
|
Freight
charges may apply to any order being shipped by freight or denoted by
truck symbol.